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The MOSFET's where moved in R0.2, hmmm, about the cap. I'm sure we can find a shorter one. I expect we'll be using well under that 3A output, so we can probably get by with a much smaller bulk cap here.

Hello,

Hope it's not surprise - bluetooth module have power supply 3,3v, not 5v.
Page 5 in http://www.exp-tech.de/service/datasheet/HC-Serial-Bluetooth-Products.pdf Please update.

Thank you for the feedback, I have added it to the list of items to address on the next spin of the board.

SKQUCAA010 switches have arrived, they snapped-in right away - so I can confirm that the package is right.

These are End of Life, I think we should migrate to SKRHAAE010 - that one is twice cheaper, not end of life but it seem to only come in surface mount edition.

Do we want MPXH6400 MAP sensor right on the PCB since it's not so bulky as the ones traditionally places on PCBs?

To PCB mount, or remote mount, that is the question. Some want the electrical signal, which prevents the air from dampening, others want it PCB mounted, which allows for less chances of electrical noise. In the past I've put on a PCB version, and allowed for wires that can be remoted. I would tend to think the thru hole PCB is better, as people are going to be rugged with the hose connection. However I don't know if the is really a "right" answer here.

kb1gtt wrote:To PCB mount, or remote mount, that is the question. Some want the electrical signal, which prevents the air from dampening, others want it PCB mounted, which allows for less chances of electrical noise. In the past I've put on a PCB version, and allowed for wires that can be remoted. I would tend to think the thru hole PCB is better, as people are going to be rugged with the hose connection. However I don't know if the is really a "right" answer here.

It is a matter of taste I think.
All the Japanese OEMs I know have the MAP sensor in the engine bay. So does my parents' Renault Megane. Do you know any OEM which runs a vacuum line to the ECU? For aftermarket ECUs it is not uncommon.

As for the fragileness of the smaller sensor: this can be fixed by placing an additional hose barb in the ECU housing I guess ?

DaWaN wrote:Do you know any OEM which runs a vacuum line to the ECU?

I think some ancient 5 cylinder Audi had MAP inside the ECU. That's the only case I am aware of but I am not an expert at all.

So is there gonna be a Frankenso board 2.0 soon or is that a ways out. is the aluminum case available thats shown in the assembled ecu? Tempted to start making a unit to play with, but I'm no where near needing it yet so I can wait. Any reason the ford 60 pin isn't suggested yet?

I would like Ford's 60pin also. Have Ford's 2.0DOHC engine in constructing and "direct" swap would be fine.

To get the enclosure and connector we have been scavenging from a junk yard ECU. They can usually be picked up for like $20 to $30, which is much lower cost than buying those parts or similar parts.

Do you have pictures of the 60 pin, or MFG part numbers? If we know the connector, we can make some progress on making a break out board or similar.

We are still pretty raw, and slowly getting better. I have been plugging away at a V0.2, but we are still a ways away from releasing it. The R0.1 board probably does what you need. Most of the problems have been things like the wireless board was on 5V instead of 3.3V, but you don't need to use the bluetooth wireless. Then some chips were to close to the enclosure, so you may need to grind off some of the ECU case. The biggest issue was the flipped USB pins. So you'll want to use the discovery board instead of the brain board. The problems have all been workable problems. We have not gotten to check the CAN circuit or thermocouple circuit as of yet. However we have done at least basic testing of the other circuits.

I think your key bump in the road would be how to physically connect. It sounds like you have a harness and connector. Can we get more info about that harness / connector?

The case is from a 93 Mazda Progete automatic, also some other Mazdas/Mazda-powered Fords.

jfive wrote:So is there gonna be a Frankenso board 2.0 soon or is that a ways out.

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I still have four or five v 0.1 worth ~$120 total. Ordering qty 10 ver 0.2 would be about $240. So ver 0.2 is waiting for v 0.1 stock to be gone.

couple of passive components around the HIP chip are still 1206, is that a bug or a feature?

This raises a slight bell. I can't quite remember what the issue was. I seem to recall the datasheet specified specific parameters of these components, and I found it was hard to obtain in 0805 or something like that. I suspect the datasheet is conservative on the requirements. I do recall it was intentional, but it might have been that the intention was to test 0805 components before committing to the smaller packages.

I'm still fighting with my KICAD. I think it's a video card drivers issue. Seems a windows update has messed up my video card, several things don't work correctly, and at the moment I can't get KICAD to open Franenso.

Seems a fresh boot, then opening KICAD worked, and I got it to open. I've got 4 gig's of RAM, so I have no idea why this worked this way. I wonder if there is a memory issue. Any how I got it opened and I don't see anything special about it, so i changed it to 0805.

Looks like IAC really wants a diode, probably a couple of other solenoids would need the same?

27) surge suppression diode option for some low-side

At least for W61 channel - that's pin 2W in 1990-1994 Miata direct application, but probably also in a couple more.

While soldering the boards I've realized that unmaked P602 & P604 pinout is pain in the bottom. Not sure if it's worth the known_issues.txt but anyway:

29) RESOLVED IN R0.2 Add LED indicators to injector channels.

An affluent member has donated funds to fabricate 0.2 - I've just placed an order this morning. Nothing major, but a bunch of smaller improvements.

What about surface mount zener diodes for the power supply? This should cut 30 seconds from total assembly time. I guess a universal through hole/1206 package is possible same way we have the 0805 package.

For example http://www.ebay.com/itm/150pcs-7-5V-ZMM-Zener-diode-SMD-Zener-diodes-1206-1-2W-GOOD-A-Cheap-/181561947351

The 8262743708 claims to be a 1W 20V. I would prefer an over voltage protection diode that can handle greater than a 1W. Can we find 1W or greater in a SMT package? I think the SMT's are limited as they don't have long lead lengths, which causes thermal Rth to go up, and limits the wattage it can handle. I have had a couple folks comment that this diode should be larger to handle larger surge conditions. My take on it, is that you only have to dump the energy it takes to blow the fuse, so I think a 1W is good enough. However I also don't know the upstream fuse, so who knows if 1W is large enough.

I've confused which diode is which, sorry.

I am not a professional ...But how to exactly solder? 3D view shows the black strip on the bottom and the picture shows the black strip on top. Which way is right?
470 25V

3D for C1001 is wrong. Please follow pictures noted here http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board

Thank you for the feedback. I have added a note to my "knownissues.txt" list. I will fix this on future stuff.

Wiki 3D graphic should be updated now, if not, you may need to refresh or {crtl} refresh to flush the cache copy.

Project Frankenstein input CMP, CKP @ INP11,INP12.
Project Frankenso input CMP, CKP @ ?
Frankenso pullup and pulldown same Frankenstein ?

Tambralinga wrote:Project Frankenso input CMP, CKP @ ?

On Frankenso INP12 is battery.
CMP, CKP @ INP9 & INP11

Tambralinga wrote:Frankenso pullup and pulldown same Frankenstein ?

Yes

russian wrote:

Tambralinga wrote:Project Frankenso input CMP, CKP @ ?

On Frankenso INP12 is battery.
CMP, CKP @ INP9 & INP11

Tambralinga wrote:Frankenso pullup and pulldown same Frankenstein ?

Yes

Crank OUT9 jump to PA5 and Cam OUT11 jump to PC6, Yes or no?

Tambralinga wrote:Crank OUT9 jump to PA5 and Cam OUT11 jump to PC6, Yes or no?

yes

0.2 has arrived! TTL is now functional Hurray!



http://rusefi.com/images/Frankenso/frankenso_0_2_front.jpg http://rusefi.com/images/Frankenso/frankenso_0_2_back.jpg