I have a 1170mm x 2450mm X 200mm cut path cnc router I have learned how to cut 6061 aluminum with down to .01mm resolution. (still learning the differences from cutting wood to aluminum) I don't know if that will help or not.. Willing to experiment, practice. lol.
Plastic injection or vacuum forming, could possibly make the die plates also.
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 7:11 pm
by Abricos
ecologicalleds wrote:I have a 1170mm x 2450mm X 200mm cut path cnc router I have learned how to cut 6061 aluminum with down to .01mm resolution. (still learning the differences from cutting wood to aluminum) I don't know if that will help or not.. Willing to experiment, practice. lol.
Plastic injection or vacuum forming, could possibly make the die plates also.
$$$$
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 7:40 pm
by kb1gtt
You need to warn me, not safe for work. I started humping my desk
I like the orange. Good and safe in the fall hunting season.
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 8:02 pm
by stefanst
So,
you're saying I need to get my trusty old Mendel out of storage?
Black plastic cases usually contain more carbon than other colours and are more effective at screening although you won't get anywhere near the same attenuation as with metal. Most of the ECUs that I deal with have had black plastic cases since around 2001. I would prefer to have an aftermarket ECU in a metal case because they don't tend to be designed for low noise.
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 3:09 pm
by AndreyB
Rhinoman wrote:I would prefer to have an aftermarket ECU in a metal case because they don't tend to be designed for low noise.
Right now I am trying the hybrid approach - metal side walls and back cover, plastic top cover for usability. I guess metal top cover should also be included in the bundle.
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 3:17 pm
by puff
There's one more issue to consider: dew point for metal walls.
BTW, as an option - there is a sticky aluminum foil tape, which could probably be used as a metal shield.
russian have you got a DXF file for the top lead you 3D printed if so ho well it fits??
I'm planning to make the top lead of my ECU of clear plastic milled on CNC.
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 3:38 pm
by Abricos
RadMx5 wrote:russian have you got a DXF file for the top lead you 3D printed if so ho well it fits??
I'm planning to make the top lead of my ECU of clear plastic milled on CNC.
Yes I have ... it's not 100% finished ...maybe 90% ...
I would say, milling plastic (rather than extruding it) allows for finer clearance. Why not taking a measuring caliper and building your own model? btw, what sort of plastic you plan to use?
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 6:46 pm
by V8Volvo245
Probably a stupid question, but wouldn't the ecu need a plastic lid if it's going to have Bluetooth communication?
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 10:19 pm
by kb1gtt
RF would need to leak out some now, some options include remote mount the Bluetooth, plastic lid, hole in sheet-metal, etc. The RF hole would need to be around 5in (12.5CM) https://www.google.com/search?q=2.4ghz+wavelength+in+mm
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 9:09 am
by V8Volvo245
Does the cover have to be 3d printed? Can it not be 2D and laser cut?
Re: 3D printing ECU case - cost?
Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 10:46 am
by kb1gtt
There are several covers noted here. I think you mean the Frankenso lid. It could likely be laser cut. I seem to recall the plastic above the STM32 Discovery board is thinner, such that you can see the blinking LED's below. as well I recall the 3D printed one includes the counter sinks on the screws such that you can use the OEM screws. If you laser cut you might want to keep those blinking LED's in mind, and you'll either need to add the counter sinks after the laser operation, or change to a different screw.
960 wrote:I dont see any issues with my Ender 3 Pro yet.
I put it together and had it up and running in about a hour or two.
Now it has been running 24/7 unattended for a couple of weeks, and still not one single issue.
I scrape off the glass-plate and check the leveling between each print.
(It's just a 2 minute job anyway)
In the start, it was a little off, but lately it have stayed leveled.
I just spray a thin layer of hair-spray, and it-s ready to go.
(No cleaning)
ZHoob2004 wrote:prusa i3 is a good option with higher quality control
I also got some PETG filament and a 0.6mm nozzle, so it was a little more than that, but we'll see how the $400 Proteus Case Machine does!
How did it go?
How many hours before opening box and first not messed up print?
How many prints were messed up until you got a happy Proteus print?
How long does it take to print Proteus case, both top and bottom?
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