work in progress Hai from The Netherlands #19

[Thommm]

Hai all,

As a quick introduction as to who I am: Thom Kouwen, 20 years old(well, 3 days to go.. ), student Electrical Engineering (bachelor), currently doing a pre-master in Sensor Systems Engineering. I own two Miata's (both American imports, 1.6L NA's), one is called Mia or smurf (cuz blue and small, small's good), the other one is a small restoration project called Frits, I'm one of those crazy people that bonds with certain cars . Enough about me (something nobody cares about), here's the victim in most of my projects:


As a young adult I have crazy dreams and goals, like having the fastest car on the block. It should at least be capable of beating my dad's car (230hp, 1650kg, turbo diesel), then I'm happy. (until I want like 400 HP, blow rods and will need to haul ass building the original block)
I'm going to be semi-building the original block (swapped in a nice big-nose block last weekend with my GF (she's awesome!)) with everything except pistons, oil pump to be decided. In the meantime the engine that's now in the car should ofcourse be charged with a nice small lag-free turbo, I happen to have T2 Garret turbo of a Volvo 440 1.7T (don't ask) with a lot of pieces, almost done welding the manifold (free flow, not log). In order to make power reliable at stupid levels I'm making a water (maybe meth ) injection kit, of course progressive, at the moment with some stuff I have laying around like a high pressure pump, some injectors, and a yet to be made controller.



Here come the questions:
-Can RusEFI do water injection (preferably progressive, saves me the hassle of designing a controller)
-Launch controll! Supported? Need sound cool of course
-other drivetrain destroying things like 2-step?

I'm buying the ECU as soon as Frits is done, or I will completely lose focus of the restoration and fully focus on power. I also need to do some supporting mods, like diff, clutch, etc (clutch done, got one that can take 350 newton-meter and is heavy as hell). Seen enough brackets () and overly enthusiastic typing? Warning in advance, I have very bad priorities and will likely take long to do anything, and then hopefully kick-ass.

Thom

[kb1gtt]

Hello and welcome along.

Have you found the wiki yet? Just in case you haven't, here's a link http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board

Your a sparky, I try to uphold the specs found on this page. http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware Feel free to do an analysis of my design, I take and give both positive and negative feedback

About your meth / water / windshield washer fluid injection, is the progressive pump a DC motor that needs PWM? I believe it can physically be done, as Frankenso has more low side drivers than you need for your 4 cyl's, but I believe the software doesn't currently exist. I believe the software could exist, but first steps first, get it running then make it scream. Launch control has been drafted, but last I recall it hadn't been very well tested in the real world. There is a need for test mules, as russian has limited hardware to develop against. He's a software guy not a hardware guy.

[AndreyB]

Noone has tried launch control or water injection yet, but we kind of have some related code. Once you have your car ready for all this I am sure I can add the missing code for you to try

[Thommm]

Sweet! I'm willing to be a test mule (in the near future), worst case I swap in another engine when I blow stuff up

Yep, found every possible wiki, I've also read most of the forum posts here, the English ones at least, this project has massive potential guys! I'm a noob to tuning, but I know some guys that aren't.
Give me a couple of weeks to finish the other project, then I'll order the DIY kit, I like soldering This has gotten me way too excited, gotta finish the other project first (just picked up a replacement rear quarter panel during school hours ), and build a turbo kit after that :p. Although I'm considering to slow myself down a bit and first get the ECU running without boost, less chance to blow stuff up (although that's cool, just way too expensive).

Are all of the unused open-drain or high/low side drivers configurable in software to do other stuff as I see fit? I just downloaded tuner studio and I'm in the process of figuring it out, so if it's obvious I'll stay quiet
EDIT: with that I mean, can I place temperature sensors wherever I want on the engine/box/car, connect it to a GPIO (thu some interface) and configure it so it shows on a gauge in tuner studio?

It's just a 12V high pressure pump, max 8 bar (115psi), it is PWM'able. If water injection is too far out in the near future I can always use a regular stand-alone controller. As you might have guessed by now, I'm a hardware guy, gotta figure out Kicad first, I'm used to working with diptrace

One more EDIT: Can I do full sequential everything when/if I get COPs or something similair?

[AndreyB]

You need rusefi.ini file from the rusefi_bundle to create a proper TS project. Yes there is a bunch of available outputs. See

[Thommm]

Sweet, I've got a lot of homework for the coming period Atleast I finally got my other Miata running on 4 cylinders all the time, turned out to be a faulty injector. Problem was that it only misfired under load, very difficult to track down because I also had one bad spark plug wire. Replaced all of the wires, tested some stuff by swapping from one car to the other and finally replaced the injector, BAM, very nicely running engine. It did only cost 50 euro's, so it's not that bad

I'm diving into tuning, tunerstudio and the documentation of frankenso/frankenstein (or figure it out if it misses something), I'll report back when I've got something useful to report. Already love the support guys, awesome!

[kb1gtt]

The IO have many options. They can be changed via software, such that any low side drive output can be injector 1, or 4, or what ever you set in software. They can also be fan control, or other features. They have this think that's been dubbed FlexIO or FIO, this allows lots of software flexibility with out having to reprogram things. If that wasn't enough, you can also re-map the pin out in the W## jumper area, which often allows you to use an OEM harness. See example picture below, it has re-mapped several signals from the left side of the connector, to the right side of the circuit board.


Also this might be of interest. http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware:Breakout-Module/en If you have a running engine, you can use this to migrate to slowly. Controlling 1 cyl at a time, etc.

[Thommm]

Oh that's sweet! I usually can borrow my moms car so I'll just go for the approach of everything in one go, I'm going to redo part of the harness so it supports sequential everything . Do you have any breakout boards that you would like to so designed but don't have time for? Is there a wish list or something of things that have not yet been developed? I can do some hardware stuff

[kb1gtt]

Yes there are things that haven't been done, and would be handy if someone could do them. For example, that rat's nest of remapping wires, could be made into a PCB that has a bunch of thru hole headers, such that you just get this IO board, and solder it up. No need to figure out which wire goes where, or how long to cut it, or what gauge it needs to be, etc. I know some vehicles would want that IO board to include some extras, like one that want's a 3rd VR, and another one that wants a native ignition chip. A good first step wold be to make one that's just wires. I know I have some dreams of PCB's I'd like to have, but they are not high on the list for russian, as he wants to focus on other more important features. Despite that I tend to think I should make the hardware, such that if the opportunity arises, the hardware isn't the obstacle. There is also the SDRAM for the 176 board. I haven't done that yet, but it's on my list. Perhaps a review of the 12V buck regulator board. I have that in hand and it's on my list to run some EMC tests. So yes lots of possible places that things could be done. Also perhaps a test jig. It would be handy if we had some kind of test jig that allows us to power up boards and test them, perhaps testing them in china, such that they can correct issues before we have them in hand.

We are currently using KICAD 4.01, but I keep dreaming of going back to the older KICAD. Any how, for now KICAD 4.01 is what works best for me, and I dream that future KICAD updates will add features instead of remove them.

[AndreyB]

Will ship your kit by Monday, see http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=425

[Thommm]

Thanks! Good topic about soldering, even if I do that kind of stuff as a job next to studying, you always learn something new

[Thommm]

Do you also have a track and trace code for shipping? I'm just anxiously waiting on the doorstep

[AndreyB]

Did not Tindie provide you with the tracking? Will PM in a second.

[Thommm]

Ah, I wasn't familiar with Tindie, there was a hyperlink in the email which said it was shipped out, hadn't noticed it. My bad . But it has arrived Going to be piecing it together in the comming evenings and then have some fun. Hope to have it assembled by the end of the week, but I'm not sure if I'm gonna make it, have to do it the old fashion way with just a soldering iron, hot air gun is acting funny :/

Compliments by the way on the packaging! Wrapped in two boxes and as far as I can see very nicely labeled, this is going to be a walk in the park to assemble (just a very long walk )

[AndreyB]

http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board is your friend - there is a link to a gallery of assembled units

just remember your hardware is 0.4 so your schematics is https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/rusefi_hardware_history/frankenso_rev00.40/

[Thommm]

Might be a good time to start a topic in me and my car section, but since I have optical encoders do I have to solder all of the damn stuff on the VR side? Do I need to make some edits on my board in order to make optical sensors work and as far as resistors and caps, they aren't always readable on the board, do I just need to reference to the BOM and the PCB file in KiCad?

[AndreyB]

http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#VR_Input points to http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Trigger
and maybe that section should be renamed since not always VR input.

http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Trigger points to http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware:Frankenso:Hall_input which is one way to use it on a Miata, you are right that MAX9926 might be an over-kill for your Hall sensor and there is a brief mentioning of it at http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenstein_board/ru#Step_2a:_Hall_sensor_input which I will now link to the hall trigger page.

[Thommm]

Ah right, stuff to dive into. I know that electronically the Hall is very similar to optical, I have to keep in mind that most stuff will be named hall since that's more common.

I also found the document with the components by reference, that was what I was looking for

[Thommm]

Aaah, now I got it, the opamps aren't used for a pre-specified task, they are there as a GP component. I already soldered the VR chip, I'll just build up the stuff around it Thanks Russian!

[AndreyB]

BTW I can move this whole topic into "your car" sub-forum if you want to rename it?

New relevant pictures:

[Thommm]

That'd be great! The cables on the middle part of the plug are probably the cam signals, right? Noticed on the pinout that those are routed to the middle part of the plug

One small question, in the lables there are two bages with small diodes, one with type number and the other labed something like "small diode". The type number ones aren't zeners and the small diode in the power supply part is supposed to be a zener. So I made an educated guess that the diode labeled "small diode" is the zener, am I correct?

Another small question, if you are running the car with the semi-stock setup for now (non sequential, but converted from MAF to MAP sensor), do I need to solder all of the auxiliary stuff for the opamps? Are they needed by definition in a Miata?

[AndreyB]

Yes CAS wiring

http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:Hardware_Frankenso_board#Power_Supply shows the location of D1001, I believe you should have the same label on the "small diode" bag?

Let's crank get power and trigger input working and get into the MAP once the engine is making some puffs

[Thommm]

Got my stuff together, is there a sheet/picture/diagram of what pin on the plug is connected to what pin on the Discovery? Took a fair bit longer then expected, my kid brothers car failed in the meantime, and failed miserably, took a whole lotta time. But it's together and working, just need to get it configured.

[AndreyB]

What year is the 1.6 car? I believe on 89-93 all the W* jumpers are simply going straight, with exception of CAS/CKP signals where we jump wires into the MAX9926 chip.

Once you have power supply I recommend set_engine_type 41 in console and then get the sensors working one by one, then tachometer with cranking then finally injectors/coils. with bench testing via console or Tuner Studio.

[Thommm]

Yep, pretty much everything lined up, I only rerouted CAS stuff and the check engine light. I also found the file I was looming for that had the mapping of, for example: input 2 is mapped to AD11 or PC1. Must have missed it while glazing through the frankenso manual. Hope to get some it configured and maybe so.e triggering on monday. Today is a day of, I'll be at my GF all day, followed a quite intense course on Engine management yesterday by one of the best (sort of subjective) tuner in the Netherlands. Learn a whole lot about engines, managements and sensors. I hope I can apply it within a month :p

[AndreyB]

sweet progress. You are heading to be first rusefi engine in NL

[Thommm]

Awesome! Anybody else that ordered a board in the Netherlands?

[Thommm]

Almost ready for dumping it in the car, I only have one problem. I can not set MAP input pin to disabled, neither in the console program or tuner studio. I can burn it in tuner studio, but after a reset it is back on PA0 (where my MAF is). Any ideas?

[AndreyB]

you are the second person reporting this issue so I will have to look into this. Can u please post your currenttune file?

As an option try set-engine-type 41 (with underscores not dashes) as a start?

[AndreyB]

the defect you were hitting is fixed - https://sourceforge.net/p/rusefi/tickets/288/