[rusEfi] Project EcoBoost Smurf (Miata NA) #19

[Thommm]

So, I've quite busy in the hello world section for far too long, so here is my thread in my car & engine.

I present to you:

IMG_20150702_192234698_HDR_NO_PLATE.jpg (1.5 MiB) Viewed 21272 times

Now into reconfiguring Frankenso to run MAP with Speed Density (sounds soo freaking cool!) and accept the stock Miata wiring (atleast for '89 to '93 1.6, but later 1.6 Miata's are very similar):



Jumpers to set, use a wire for high current signals, a 0-Ohm resistor for low current signals:

Wire side - board side (Wire as jumper or 0-Ohm resistor)
W2 - W2 (power, obviously needed ,Wire)
W5 - W6 (This is for the check engine light, optional and I haven't checked if it works yet,resistor)
W7 - W7 (Ignition, resistor/wire)
W8 - W8 (Ignition, wasted spark so only two channels, will get into that, resistor/wire)
W10 - W57 (Only if you have A/C, don't know why I did this, I don't have A/C)
W18 - W35 (Cooling Fan)
W21 - W48 (This goes high when lighting is on, can be used to increased idle in the future, not used at the moment)

W39 - W39 (ground for the injectors, big wire)
W40 - W40 (ground for other outputs, big wire)
W41 - W41 (ground for ECU, wire)
W42 - W42 (ground for sensors (do not used this line to sink current!), wire)
W43 - W43 (Cam position sensor, resistor)
W45 - W45 (Cam position sensor, one is crank one is cam, will get into that, resistor)
W47 - W47 (An igniter output (driver of the coils), not configured and not used (yet?), resistor)
W49 - W49 (Power for the AFM, if you remove the AFM you don't need it, resistor)
W50 - W50 (TPS, make sure to convert to a linear type TPS, stock is just a switch, resistor)
W52 - W52 (Oxygen sensor, for maximal engine power and also safety convert to a wideband, resistor)
W53 - W53 (AFM output signal, if you convert to MAP don't place this jumper, resistor)
W54 - W54 (AFM IAT(intake air temperature) signal, if you convert to MAP make sure to place an external sensor near the throttle body, resistor)
W55 - W55 (CLT sensor or Coolant temperature sensor, resistor)
W59 - W59 (Injector 1 & 3, batch fired, wire)
W60 - W60 (Injector 2 & 4, batch fired, wire)
W61 - W61 (Idle speed control, wire)
W62 - W62 (opentional, I'm going to use it for the electronic boos control, wire)

I promised above that I would go into wasted spark, what it is, what it does and what you have to take into consideration. Wasted spark means that you have 1 coil per 2 cylinders, firing both cylinders twice in two rotations (four stroke engine, so one cycle is two rotations). That means that even though one spark is needed per cycle, the system fires twice. Sounds illogical right? Well, it is, sort of. It has to do with cost of manufacturing, as you might imagine, two coils are cheaper than one. One of the two sparks per cycle is lost in the exhaust stroke, so it doesn't do anything, but due to the low pressure in the cylinder (the exhaust port is open), it does not cost a lot of voltage to trigger the spark. Out of the +-15 kilovolts the system generates around 2 to 3 kV (kilovolt) is lost in that cylinder, that means that there is still 12kV left for the cylinder that is at the top of the compression stroke! (I'm making some assumptions, but this is the basics)

So the manufacturer (Mazda in our case) can save two coils and it doesn't hurt anything, performance is pretty much the same. There is one downside, due to everything working twice as much as needed in the ignition system, stuff like spark plug wires and the plugs themselves wear around twice as fast as needed. That is one of the reasons why our cars are known for eating spark plug wires. Mazda doesn't care, means they can sell you more spark plugs and wires.

But to make it work we obviously have to configure that in Tuner Studio, though it's very easy. You go to Engine, Base Engine Settings and set Ignition Mode to "Wasted".

wasted spark config.png (16.52 KiB) Viewed 21272 times

Now for the Cam signals, remember I said one is for the crank and one is for the cam itself? I hear you thinking, but I only have one sensor, the CAS? Correct, but it has two profiles inside, so it's actually two sensors in one.
For the signals themselves you have (or you should have) already soldered the 0-ohm resistors or wires in place, but a bit of reconfiguration is needed.

You may ignore the top orange wire going from 5V to the resistor, it's the horizontal one.
The two important wires are the ones with one of the sides near the opamp, and the other two sides next to each other above the right side of the opamps. These op amps buffer the input signal from the hall sensors so their outputs should be connected to the inputs on the discovery board, in order to get the trigger signals through. Solder both wires in place and remove (or don't place) R315 and R295, these form a divider with two other resistors, and lowered the level enough to make the discovery board miss the signal. If you remove those two the input is high enough for the discovery board (might actually be to high since it is 5V, will do some checking out but has worked for over a 100 miles for me).

I've uploaded my TS project, should be good enough to get it started but it is MAP with speed density, which I will come to in a couple of days (or a bit longer if I forget it again, sorry Andrey! ) EDIT: I can't upload a TSProject file here, can you fix that Andrey? Extension: tsproj. Drive link:

By the way, for the high-low drivers (the four chips near the power supply), on the bottom make sure to connect all of their power supplies with the 12V line. You can just solder a jumper between VP and 12V on P604 to P607.

[AndreyB]

Looks like any color jumper wire is good in Netherlands as long as it's orange

Sweet, thank you for the useful info! I will use your tune to start my own car soon!

[kb1gtt]

I figured the wire was red, and the flash made it look orange in the picture. I was kind of thinking it was a camouflage effort

[Nehrenholz]

Nice Write up. Thanks.

[Thommm]

Haha, I could have known. I really didn't pick orange everything on purpose xD. I just had to make changes as I went and orange is the first color in the drawer with wires :p. I didn't use a flash, just poor lighting from my self made, uber bright LED desk light. I'll get to the MAP stuff in a couple of days, quite easy to do actually and soo much easier tuning. Auto tune rocks, even with a narrowband.

[AndreyB]

I have to confess I cannot figure our how to open this. Drive allowed me to download Smurf V0.1_basemap for forum.tsproj file but how do I open it? I suspect it might be easier to either attach just the CurrentTune file (the downside is that project definition would not be there), or maybe zip the folder and attach the zip right to the forum post? Unless you can tell me what to do with the drive link/file

[tomiata]

From Drive, I was able to save Thommm's tsproj file to my own google Drive, then download the file from there. The file is actually a zip file. I renamed it to Smurf.zip and attached it here.

Thanks, Thommm, for the very helpful write up on your configuration!!

[Thommm]

Thanks Tomiata! I hope my next writeup about MAP conversion will also be usefull :p I only still need an IAT sensor outside of de stock AFM (that's what we want to get rid of xD) I decided to explain the MAP setup when I have the new sensor, so I can do everything at once.

[tomiata]

I'm trying see what is different with your configuration and mine (1990 1.6L) which is not starting yet. The main difference I see is you wired the igniter drive to 12v rather than 5v. I checked the signal on the stock ECU, and I see 5v pulses. Are you using the stock igniter & coils?

Thanks!

[AndreyB]

What plug pin are you using for wideband? I want us to use the same one.

[Thommm]

Yep, stock igniter and coils, I might have wrongly assumed (don't ever assume, I know) it's 12V switched. What wideband plug? I'm running the SLC free, but I don't like it and wouldn't recommend it, pain in the ass to get working and still not ideal. Will swap it out in the future for something decent.

[AndreyB]

how are you planning to feed wideband into rusefi? My plan is to add an extra wire into the oem ecu plug into some empty position.

[kb1gtt]

Last I recall from SLCFree was that the PSoC program appeared to have some missing components. It appeared it was the Waltech topology but mostly ported to the PSoC chip, which allows internal re-configuration. I suspect the internal interconnects were being modified by the program, but didn't get around to figuring out that level of detail. The PSoC1 is not AEC Q100 qualified. If I were to do the PSoC thing I'd probably port it to a PSoC3 which does have AEC Q100 qualified chips. Here's a link to the forum thread about the Waltech.

http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=387

[Thommm]

So, it appears it a poorly implemented port... I've got the LSU4.9 type, I just tried a long tune ride, totally useless thing. It's not keeping temperature correctly, it never goes lean (not even in free air). There are a lot of topics on the 14point7 group, the owner rarely replies. Can I do anything useful with what I have? The boards in the topic you linked (and some other ones) are all about the 4.2 or has the CJ125 been implemented already? Has the designed board or schematic been tested yet? If it hasn't been tested/used in any way, I'll order a couple of chips and design a board for it, stupid SLC free

[Thommm]

It is a hard chip to come by :0 how is the board with the atmega doing?

[AndreyB]

It is a hard chip to come by :0 how is the board with the atmega doing?

I am not aware of anyone putting one together or using it. We are nowhere with our own CJ125 designs.

[AndreyB]

I am using http://www.14point7.com/products/slc-oem on my Neon and I am getting another one ready for the Miata, but I barely know what I am doing.

And there is always http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/

[Thommm]

And the SLC OEM is working like it should? I've got a bad taste in my mouth as 14point7 is concerned, but they most like care to little to make the open-source thing any good, they should just discontinue if it sucks, but hey, who am I.

I'm trying to get my hands on a couple of CJ-125's, but my usual sources have come up empty, gotta get creative

[AndreyB]

I'm trying to get my hands on a couple of CJ-125's

aliexpress.com?

But I believe CJ-125 is not self-contained, you still need a CPU running some logic which we do not have?

[kb1gtt]

Yeah, CJ125 supply has been a problem, you pretty much need to order QTY to get them reliably. There is a start to a CJ125 board found here, and I have a chip in hand, some where.
https://svn.code.sf.net/p/rusefi/code/trunk/hardware/CJ125_board/

Did you purchase the SLCFree? Last I recall there was no inventory, so you couldn't buy it an the project was just there for reference. I agree that support and getting shipments from 14point7 has been historically an issue. Are you skilled enough to try a DIY thing? I might be able to offer some help in debugging your existing PSoC based board. Personally I would like to see a CAN based WO2 board. That would help keep the sensitive signals away from noisy signals, and well, I see lots of good things from such a device if it existed.

[Thommm]

I've got the SLC Free, already done a lot of debugging but it is just far to slow to respond to change. I don't think it's a fault in the thing, other than a design flaw. If you change the throttle position the thing immidately starts showing 0.68 (max) lambda, and stays there for about 5 seconds, then gives semi reasonable values. Also, the range between 0.95 and 0.68 does not exist, it is one or the other.... I've already ordered a Spartan 2 from a seller in Netherland that gives warranty, I need a properly running car to get to school, this sucks :p.

I'm in the process of getting a couple of CJ125's from ali, but don't expect a functioning controller next week. It's at the limit (I think) of my designing abilities, but it's a nice challenge. I will do my best, just don't hate on me if I can't get it done within a reasonable timeframe xD.

Has anybody got the knocksensor working/configured yet by the way? I want to get it running this week, a base would be nice

Car is running fine, apart from misfire at around 1800 RPM and 3200 RPM, don't know if AFR's are reasonable, think it's quite rich.

[AndreyB]

Has anybody got the knocksensor working/configured yet by the way? I want to get it running this week, a base would be nice

No. http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=778

[Thommm]

Now I'm really annoyed, just got my Spartan 2 controller, and the rich range is still not working! From about 1:14.4 to 1:10 just switches between those two, there is no inbetween . I just emailed 14point7, but I think it's in the sensor Any brilliant ideas, anybody

[Dial0]

Yeah I noticed that the 14point7 stuff doesn't throw up errors when the sensor is faulty, it just give weird readings. Which can be confusing, as you don't know if the problem is with the controller or the sensor.

[Thommm]

Interesting issue after updating to the misfire fix firmware. The MAP settings reset to 0V = 0Bar, 5V = 0Bar. Took a while to find, it cranked fine but didn't start. Changing the 5V = 0Bar to 5V = 3Bar fixed it. So, for people with issues after updating, check base settings

[Thommm]

(@ moved the post to increase or reduce confusion between different cars. maybe we just need a separate topic for misfires, not sure what's the best way)

Roger that, here you go. For me it's around 2850 - 2900. I can't see AFR spike, but that could be my fucked up sensor, it does not read between 10 and 14.4. New one on order will be here on friday or saturday. _misfire forum goes up to 1.2 atmosphere, other goes up to 1.5 atmosphere

[AndreyB]

I do not know what I am doing Can you pin point the areas of hesitation or misfires on the logs?

[Dial0]

Sorry if this is a dumb suggestion, I haven't had time to look at the code in detail.

Correct me if I am wrong but the fueling schedule is calculated once per engine cycle (720 degrees)?
I am assuming that the injection pulse is fixed to finish at the same engine position, and as more fuel is required the pulse starts sooner and still finishes at the same engine position.

Is it possible that there is an issue around when the schedule is calculated,
and it calculates that the injection pulse needs to start sooner than where the current engine position is?

So at 2900rpm it calculates that the pulse start should be at 10 Degrees, then the load increases a little and it calculates for that cycle it needs to start at -5 degrees, which it can't do so it skips that cycle, then for the next cycle it can calculate that the start needs to happen at 715degrees (technically the same start position), which works fine?

So the injection calculation works most of the time except when there is a that 0 degrees cross over?

[AndreyB]

Correct me if I am wrong but the fueling schedule is calculated once per engine cycle (720 degrees)?
I am assuming that the injection pulse is fixed to finish at the same engine position

there are two copies of fueling schedule - while one is being calculated for the next engine cycle, current cycle is running based on the previous copy. So I hope that what you are describing is not an issue.

Injection phase is configurable via a table.

[Thommm]

I can't pinpoint them on that log, that was with my bad wideband. Installed the new one today and made some logs, I'm on my phone now, but I will post them tomorrow, with a note of where to look:) I've now got good AFRs, up to 4000 RPM on WOT, then my injectors are at max dutycycle (roughly 140 hp ) I'm ordering bigger ones when I've got enough cash to spare, for now I'm just shifting at 4000 RPM, still damn quick.

I have not been able to get automatic IAC idle working, I can set it manually by moving the slider. Works perfectly in manual mode, but switching to auto does nothing, it stays at what it is but doesn't correct for load change. Could hou share your IAC settings for the miata or the ford?