[rusEfi] 2000 Miata Turbo #39

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kb1gtt
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo

Post by kb1gtt »

A picture might help with comments. Was the OEM sensor surrounded by metal? If so was it a magnetic type of metal? It's possible that the metal around the sensor was originally steering magnetic flux, and is not doing that now. It's also possible that the metal around the OEM was functioning as a heat sink, and is not there now. It's also possible that the sensor is seeing more vibration or is less protected from the elements than the OEM was. This could cause the sensor to develop micro cracks in the potting, and fail internally. Lots of speculations, a picture would help us make comments.
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AndreyB
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo

Post by AndreyB »

Do you mean it runs on rusefi? Want to post a video? Want to post cranking logs?
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NBytevenom
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo

Post by NBytevenom »

kb1gtt wrote:A picture might help with comments. Was the OEM sensor surrounded by metal? If so was it a magnetic type of metal? It's possible that the metal around the sensor was originally steering magnetic flux, and is not doing that now. It's also possible that the metal around the OEM was functioning as a heat sink, and is not there now. It's also possible that the sensor is seeing more vibration or is less protected from the elements than the OEM was. This could cause the sensor to develop micro cracks in the potting, and fail internally. Lots of speculations, a picture would help us make comments.
Will post a picture ASAP when I get home again.
I did notice, however that my alternator control connector was not fully seated. My BattV was pretty close to 13.6, but was oscillating a lot more than usual. Perhaps the faulty charging control was causing some shenanigans? I know unlikely. I have yet to play with the car since seating that connector in fully.
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo

Post by NBytevenom »

Finally got home and had someone crank the engine while I was observing. The sensor does shake, and stays just in place.
Moving the plate back and forth by hand was pretty darn difficult, so that worry was out of place.
Next I had someone crank the engine while I manually changed the crank sensor gap by hand - Still hard to trigger.

Then I figured it might be the crank sensor itself. So I went to remove the battery terminal, and the wire fell out of the terminal connector :roll: :roll:
Tightened everything back up....and cranks and starts perfectly. I guess a very poor ground was the reason?

I got an FM 36-2 wheel locally for cheap. Any luck in running these with RusEFI?
Should just be under custom wheel 36 for # teeth and 2 for missing teeth, no?
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo

Post by AndreyB »

NBytevenom wrote: Should just be under custom wheel 36 for # teeth and 2 for missing teeth, no?
Yes.

Please also note that you are not giving me the information I am asking for.
russian wrote:Do you mean it runs on rusefi? Want to post a video? Want to post cranking logs?
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NBytevenom
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo

Post by NBytevenom »

russian wrote:
NBytevenom wrote: Should just be under custom wheel 36 for # teeth and 2 for missing teeth, no?
Yes.

Please also note that you are not giving me the information I am asking for.
russian wrote:Do you mean it runs on rusefi? Want to post a video? Want to post cranking logs?
Ah, didn't even see the post about a video!
Silly me, I had a gopro video mounted on my harness bar of it driving around. The sd card reader is at school unfortunately.
It does run on RusEFI. I can attach a log of me driving around (after getting the car started, when trying for the 10208th time, before ground fix).

I'll also attach a picture of what my sensor looks like right now. Just to give an idea. The sensor is actually just behind the pulley.
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NBytevenom
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo

Post by NBytevenom »

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66YTuWwbUkc[/video]

Quick video of my car idling on RusEFI. Ignore the smoke coming out the engine bay lol, I think a weld of mine cracked, because my exhaust is hanging a bit low right now as well.
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo #39

Post by AndreyB »

Can you please post a picture of your board? I am mostly interested in the breakout section wires.
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NBytevenom
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo #39

Post by NBytevenom »

russian wrote:
Sat Feb 03, 2018 1:51 am
Can you please post a picture of your board? I am mostly interested in the breakout section wires.
Do you still need the picture? I had to get rid of the car unfortunately. I was doing some suspension work, and noticed some flaking metal on the frame rail. I peeled it off, and along with it came 4 inches of frame rail. I had no framerail form the subframe to about 10cm away from the bumper. Had to partout and junk the car.

I believe I'll be shipping my RusEFI back to Stefanst as I recently built an MS3X.

All is not lost however, I picked up an 05 Miata with VVT. I would like to run that on RusEFI and compare it to my X. How would I go about that? Order the assembled kit with no soldered connector, pigtail and the NB2 connector? I've built a couple MS3X harnesses now, so I'm not unfamiliar with the process.
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Re: 2000 Miata Turbo #39

Post by AndreyB »

NBytevenom wrote:
Thu Feb 22, 2018 4:16 pm
I would like to run that on RusEFI and compare it to my X. How would I go about that? Order the assembled kit with no soldered connector, pigtail and the NB2 connector?
Either that, or have 64 pin connector on Frankenso and build a harness adapter between 64 pin and NB2. I enjoy the harness adapter approach since it allows to move ECU further away from under steering column, and allows me to not get in there every time I need to plug/unplug.
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