CAM speed trigger input
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CAM speed trigger input
Hi,
Is there any way to get CAM speed trigger input?
I use a 36-1 trigger wheel on the end of the camshaft. Tunerstudio doesn't show this option with rusefi. All other ecu Speeduino, MS have this option.
Is there any way to get CAM speed trigger input?
I use a 36-1 trigger wheel on the end of the camshaft. Tunerstudio doesn't show this option with rusefi. All other ecu Speeduino, MS have this option.
Re: CAM speed trigger input
What does the CAM and / or CRANKk signal look like? It can likely be supported. However we need to know what the signals look like, such that they can be decoded. Would I be correct if I understood this as 36-1 for 720 degrees of rotation.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
MS and speeduino just ask if pattern is at crank or cam speed.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
rusEfi has a similar sceen
A whole set of older version of screens is available at https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/tree/master/firmware/tunerstudio/docs
Unfortunatelly the picture above is the only new screen shot. I can use some help taking a new set of menu screen shots now that this was improved.
A whole set of older version of screens is available at https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/tree/master/firmware/tunerstudio/docs
Unfortunatelly the picture above is the only new screen shot. I can use some help taking a new set of menu screen shots now that this was improved.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
Yes, I've seen that but there is no speed setting so the rusefi won't know if it's crank or cam speed.
This 36-1 at cam speed.
This 36-1 at cam speed.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
So you do not see "operation mode" and the options in that drop down do not ring a bell? "4 storke with crank" vs "4 stroke with cam" what do you think this is about? Do you think the labels are not most clear? Do you have better suggestions?gptech2444 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:26 pmYes, I've seen that but there is no speed setting so the rusefi won't know if it's crank or cam speed.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
To me this says Crank with or without cam sensor. So a crank signal always has to be present and the cam signal is optional through the 2nd sensor.russian wrote: ↑Mon Jun 04, 2018 11:43 pmSo you do not see "operation mode" and the options in that drop down do not ring a bell? "4 storke with crank" vs "4 stroke with cam" what do you think this is about? Do you think the labels are not most clear? Do you have better suggestions?gptech2444 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:26 pmYes, I've seen that but there is no speed setting so the rusefi won't know if it's crank or cam speed.
It's not clear that the primary signal is with cam OR crank.
I think it would be clearer if it said primary input signal crank or cam.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
Ok, I confirmed what you said.
I setup Ardustim to output a 36-1 trigger pattern into the CAM input and rusefi sees it as double the input. ie, 1250rpm input equals 2500rpm at crank.
I think if you reword the dialogue box to CAM speed or CRANK speed input or sensor location it would be clearer.
I setup Ardustim to output a 36-1 trigger pattern into the CAM input and rusefi sees it as double the input. ie, 1250rpm input equals 2500rpm at crank.
I think if you reword the dialogue box to CAM speed or CRANK speed input or sensor location it would be clearer.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
That's a sweet 3D printed adapter plate.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
Try putting a box around your printer, such that the air does not move around to much. This prevents the part from cooling off to quickly, and helps with the new layer adhering to the older / colder layer. This box also helps prevent your part from cooling to quickly. When it cools quickly it has an increased chance of warpage. Cooling it slowly tends to help make flatter parts, as it helps relieve internal stresses. You can try this by simply cutting up a card board box, and taping some saran wrap to it making windows which allows you to see what is happening inside. If you have a power supply some where, you should try to keep that as cold as possible. Heat and dust are core killers for power supplies. It's cool to see the integrated 3D printed parts.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
Yes, that's exactly what I did. By about the third try I had it dialed in.kb1gtt wrote: ↑Tue Jun 05, 2018 10:38 amTry putting a box around your printer, such that the air does not move around to much. This prevents the part from cooling off to quickly, and helps with the new layer adhering to the older / colder layer. This box also helps prevent your part from cooling to quickly. When it cools quickly it has an increased chance of warpage. Cooling it slowly tends to help make flatter parts, as it helps relieve internal stresses. You can try this by simply cutting up a card board box, and taping some saran wrap to it making windows which allows you to see what is happening inside. If you have a power supply some where, you should try to keep that as cold as possible. Heat and dust are core killers for power supplies. It's cool to see the integrated 3D printed parts.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
I didn't get.
The last attempt was a success because you used that box around your printer? And all of the previous attempts failed because you hadn't had that box?
The last attempt was a success because you used that box around your printer? And all of the previous attempts failed because you hadn't had that box?
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
I use Cube Glue Stabilizes your print on the glass bed ...gptech2444 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 05, 2018 12:28 pmIt was a combination of things but having the box around the printer definitely helped.
Box and heater glass bed 70 c extruded 195-200 ... no Chinese filament ... I use https://hatchbox3d.com filament ...
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
No problem with sticking to the bed, I uses UHU glue stick. You need much higher temps with ABS. 90-100c bed temp and 240-260c extruder temps.Abricos wrote: ↑Tue Jun 05, 2018 3:08 pmI use Cube Glue Stabilizes your print on the glass bed ...gptech2444 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 05, 2018 12:28 pmIt was a combination of things but having the box around the printer definitely helped.
Box and heater glass bed 70 c extruded 195-200 ... no Chinese filament ... I use https://hatchbox3d.com filament ...
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
I've changed it to "Operation mode / speed"gptech2444 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 05, 2018 6:10 amI think if you reword the dialogue box to CAM speed or CRANK speed input or sensor location it would be clearer.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
Hmmm, perhaps "4 storke primary = 360" or "4 stroke primary = 720" I kind of think that there should be some rusEFI specific acronyms. Perhaps acronyms like Primary Engine Angle Decoder (PEAD) and Secondary Engine Angle Decoder (SEAD). Then the comment could note "4 storke PEAD = 360" and "4 storke PEAD = 720"
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
I like the way Speeduino has set out the trigger setup, concise and clear.kb1gtt wrote: ↑Wed Jun 06, 2018 12:03 amHmmm, perhaps "4 storke primary = 360" or "4 stroke primary = 720" I kind of think that there should be some rusEFI specific acronyms. Perhaps acronyms like Primary Engine Angle Decoder (PEAD) and Secondary Engine Angle Decoder (SEAD). Then the comment could note "4 storke PEAD = 360" and "4 storke PEAD = 720"
Re: CAM speed trigger input
so is it or not possible to set a missing tooth at cam and run sequencial? didnt got it if and how
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
yes it is possible. just set this via Tuner Studio and it would work.
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
I'm feeling dumb but can't understand how can you point how ?
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Re: CAM speed trigger input
Problem is probably with rusEfi not being too easy in this area I would suggest asking on Slack chat https://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1198 - I have to run now, not sure how to explain it really. What have you tried and how did it work for you for what you have tried? What seems to be confusing?
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