[info] microRusEFI

Hardware inside and outside of the ECU
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AndreyB
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microRusEFI

Post by AndreyB »

microRusEfi is a smaller board targeted at port injected gasoline engines with not more than four cylinders and cable-driven throttle.

https://rusefi.com/microrusefi/

Kit documentation https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Hardware_microRusEfi_kit_instructions
User documentation https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/Hardware_microRusEfi
Schematics & Gerbers https://github.com/rusefi/hw_microRusEfi
MRE-specific builds for both 0.3 (4 layer F7) and 0.4 (2 layer F4) are available at https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi_documentation/wiki/Download

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Slack https://rusefi.slack.com/messages/CJJ1VGB1N/details/

iBom 0.3 4-layer https://rusefi.com/docs/ibom/microRusEfi_R0.3.html
iBom 0.4.5 2-layer https://rusefi.com/docs/ibom/microRusEfi_R0.4.5.html
iBom 0.4.7 2-layer https://rusefi.com/docs/ibom/microRusEfi_R0.4.7.html
iBom 0.4.8 2-layer https://rusefi.com/docs/ibom/microRusEfi_R0.4.8.html
iBom 0.5.0 2-layer https://rusefi.com/docs/ibom/micro_rusEFI_0.5.0.html


Compatible case: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333321786579
Compatible case + harness: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333321806659
kits or assembled units: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333532119947
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microRusEFI

Post by AndreyB »

People with microRusEfi hardware:

@mck1117 has 0.1 with 16+ Volvo racing hours on it!
@ZHoob2004 has 0.1 start and idle on Honda b16
@andreyb has 0.3 & 0.4.5 & 0.4.7 wired to run Miata NB2
@stefanst has 0.3 loaner wired to run Miata NA6
@Abricos has 0.3 running one cylinder test engine
@Dron_Gus will have 0.4.7 with TLE8888-QK (version with watchdog) by end of March
@fluke9 0.4.7 kit on the way
@Jokeri 0.4.7 kit on the way
@RecaroRacer 0.4.7 kit on the way
@JPh assembled 0.4.7 on the way

People with kits or assembly in progress:
TBD
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Re: microRusEfi

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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

960 wrote:
Sun Apr 07, 2019 8:48 pm
I can help you with PCB.

It would be better if it was just a little larger, so you at least can have footprints for H-bridge and other stuff.


How about something like this?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1set-80pin-ECU-Aluminum-Enclosure-Box-with-Molex-32-48-pin-molex-PCB-male-female-ECU/32950266304.html

Or this?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-sets-kits-automotive-plastic-48-pin-way-ecu-enclosure-box-with-molex-connectors/32839361268.html?spm=2114.search0604.3.1.728321c6sU5DEj&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6_10065_10068_319_10059_10884_317_10887_10696_321_322_10084_453_10083_454_10103_10618_10307_537_536,searchweb201603_70,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=5ed1bddc-d119-4276-b412-eadf49988af6-0&algo_pvid=5ed1bddc-d119-4276-b412-eadf49988af6&transAbTest=ae803_5
1) No, you cannot help with PCB - you have your PCB, now you need to help with running your engine and providing feedback.

2) H-bridge is definitely not needed for microRusEfi

3) aliexpress 32950266304 says "Sorry, this item is no longer available!" and it's $23

4) aliexpress 32839361268 is interesting - I like 48 pins, but I have no idea what is the side of this box - is it much smaller or similar? Also nice if it's really real molex or compatible molex, not some unknown connector. Is it a problem that it has no metal parts i.e. it would not be a heat sink?
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by ZHoob2004 »

Not sure about designing microRusEfi, since I haven't really been paying attention to the TLE8888 stuff. Right now I'm thinking it might make a great body control module for my Datsun restomod...
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by 960 »

russian wrote:
Sun Apr 07, 2019 10:24 pm



4) aliexpress 32839361268 is interesting - I like 48 pins, but I have no idea what is the side of this box - is it much smaller or similar? Also nice if it's really real molex or compatible molex, not some unknown connector. Is it a problem that it has no metal parts i.e. it would not be a heat sink?
I like the second one too.
It is a Molex connector, it's also stated at the site.
If you look thru the store they also sell the same Molex.

They also make pigtails and custom enclosures on order.

It should better be aluminium, but I think I have seen the same one in other versions with aluminium.

The Pre-regulator for the TLE8888 makes a lot of heat.
Last edited by 960 on Mon Apr 08, 2019 12:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by atntpt »

I was planning to use mega and speeduino but already made some changes and replaced for stm. Very early stages !
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by kb1gtt »

I'm interested in a micro, but I'm tied up for a couple more weeks. I dream of Kinetis chip, with TLE8888. I would push for water tight for ATV's, bikes, go-carts, etc. As well I would desire a purchased pig tail side of the harness. I would also dream of an optional PT2000. However it's only dream for me, for the next couple of weeks-ish. Stupid other priorities.
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Re: microRusEfi

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Re: microRusEfi

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Re: microRusEfi

Post by kb1gtt »

Pins / sockets and the crimp tool for the harness side of that connector?
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by 960 »

kb1gtt wrote:
Mon Apr 08, 2019 5:00 pm
Pins / sockets and the crimp tool for the harness side of that connector?
This is a standard Molex 48 pin.
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Re: microRusEfi

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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

Got 48 and 64 pin molex shells - these are quite cheap but they came without any connectors. Just ordered the 48 pin connector kit.

The PCB for the 48 case would be 86 by 102 mm, most of the area has about 10 mm height above the PCB inside the case.

48 pin wire side 0643201311 $14
48 pin PCB side 5007620481 $7
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by 960 »

The heihgt are no issue.
Its only the cap that are higher.

The 48 pin enclosure would have enough space for a full setup.

48 pins might be too few, so 64 would be better.

What size are the 64 pin?

I have seen a dual molex enclosure at Alibaba, but it was a little too ugly.

Maybe extruded enclosure could be interesting?
Last edited by 960 on Wed May 01, 2019 4:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: microRusEfi

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Re: microRusEfi

Post by ZHoob2004 »

Those "aviation" connectors cost less than an aviation bolt...

I'm not sure how I feel about depending on a connector that's only available in China. If it's a knockoff of a name brand connector, I'm fine with that because then the real thing can be substituted if so desired and supply is guaranteed.
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by kb1gtt »

I wonder if that's solder cup inside the harness end, or crimp pins. I suspect it's not really aviation, as they don't appear to have a locking mechanism. However for the price, they could claim it's a cheese sandwich for all I'm concerned :)

Often connectors are put flush similar to the attached picture.
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

I am sorry for the confusion. microRusEfi means:

Big emphasis - this is for one-two cylinder applications and very simple cars like Miata NA. By definition, this would be about 48 pins - if not 24.
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

Still believe this 48 pin metal case is our best case for microRusEfi board

stm32f469 with 100 pins. Be careful stm32f469 is not pin compatible with stm32f407
STM32F767VIT6 with 100 pins
tle8888
8 or 12 channels opamps
sd card module like frankenso
6 channels hi side (?)
vertical USB
No ETB
No FT232

For top side of PCB we have 76.mm by 98mm, minus 12mm bottom corners - that's including connector area. 10mm of vertical on top
For bottom side of PCB we have 27mm by 71mm. 4mm of vertical on the back, enough for sd card module :)
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

russian wrote:
Mon May 06, 2019 10:21 pm
stm32f469 with 100 pins. Be careful stm32f469 is not pin compatible with stm32f407
STM32F767VIT6 with 100 pins
Since it's a new board let's go with STM32F767VIT6 with LQFP100 - I am mostly interested in RAM and two banks of Flash here
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by 960 »

Are the PCB meant to bolt to the bottom?

I dont see it clamped between the shells anywhere
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

960 wrote:
Mon May 06, 2019 10:53 pm
Are the PCB meant to bolt to the bottom?
I believe it's clamped - on the bottom it lays flat on 50% of the surface, on top PCB edge extend to green lines while the red area presses on top of it.

Open width of the board is 76.8mm while total width of the board is 86.8mm - 5mm on each side is clamping area. I will ship you a case and try scanning it tomorrow.
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by 960 »

Ok, so the bottom part goes a little further in than the top?

But how deep is the edge compared to the 1.6mm PCB?

Are there room for any components at all under the PCB exept the 27 x 71
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

Yellow areas touch PCB surface. White area is where we have vertical clearance.

just make sure 100 pins not 144 probably?
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by 960 »

I have used 100 pins.

Sure it's not meant to be bolted to bottom?

I still dont see how it can be clamped..

That edge looks like deeper than 1.6mm?
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

960 wrote:
Tue May 07, 2019 12:28 am
Sure it's not meant to be bolted to bottom?

That edge looks like deeper than 1.6mm?
top side edge is 1mm deep, bottom side edge is the other 0.6mm it looks like. Pretty sure not mean to be bolted
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

Actually it looks like bottom side demands a smaller overall PCB size. So #1 "bottom" picture is PCB outline and #2 "top" picture is the area not covered by the top side of the shell. These two papers are aligned at the top edge. Note locations of two pins which have to be 3mm in diameter.
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by 960 »

I see.

The only thing that looks questionable are if a thin pcb like ours will get clamped.

I think that edge looks high.

Do you have a small pcb piece you can put between and test?
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Re: microRusEfi

Post by AndreyB »

960 wrote:
Tue May 07, 2019 3:43 am
The only thing that looks questionable are if a thin pcb like ours will get clamped. I think that edge looks high. Do you have a small pcb piece you can put between and test?
You are right. It would not clamp even 2mm PCB. It has to be bolted to the bottom side using these four holes. 3mm diameter again.
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