[info] Mary Shelley's Frankenso

[Simon@FutureProof]

Some kind of success - I followed your advice and grounded the circuit to trigger it, working from the Discovery back to the MAX9926.

3.3v from the resistors back to the Discovery and grounding it lit the LEDs next to the MAX9926 and registered a trigger event.
Other side of the MAX9926 resulted in nothing...

I had a speeduino VR board from another project to stole the MAX9926 from that board and swapped it with the one on the Frankenso, now triggering the crank inputs lights the LEDs and registers as an event.
Jumping the stimulator outputs to the input side of the MAX9926 now makes everything run so I might try firing the car up again tomorrow.

No idea what was wrong with the old chip but I will do some checking, it was one of the first things I did on the board so I may have damaged it with too much heat.

[kb1gtt]

Heat is less likely. ESD is more likely. Are these OEM chips?

[960]

Dont think it's from heat.

I have heated IC's so they are almost rubber, and never destroyed any.

[Simon@FutureProof]

Certainly not heat, I put it onto the other board to test/play with it and it works fine.

All the solder joints on the frankenso were OK so I have no idea why it didn't operate.

Either way, both MAX chips now work.

[Simon@FutureProof]

Just achieved first start. rusEFI confirmed running on a 1980s BMW 325. (albeit not very well yet..)

[AndreyB]

(albeit not very well yet..)

Congrats! Can I please blame the tune?

[Simon@FutureProof]

You can indeed, although at this point I would blame the tuner....

I stuck it into wasted spark and batch injection just to avoid any possible sync errors so I have no idea what the injector pulse widths or the ignition timing was. I just need to sit down and work out what my idle pulse widths and timings should be, fortunately I have a mortronic ECU hooked up to run on the bench so I can sit in the warm with a scope and find that out at my leisure.

Hopefully get it running better at the weekend.
I will also get back to finishing off this build process as I have a load of notes and photos still to add.

[Simon@FutureProof]

OK, so finishing off the build of the Frankenso before moving on to the vehicle specific bits on another thread.

------------------------------------------
Installed 5v rail jumper at W23

Installed LCD PWR Jumper

Fitted jumpers for Hi-Low driver voltages

Fitted jumpers for crank and cam sensor

It was at this point I put together a bench test rig so I could stimulate the outputs and debug the ECU on the bench.
I'm sure there are things I have missed from this build, I think its most likely I have missed some jumpers but the purpose of the bench test.

If there is enough want for it then I will do a quick round up of how I put the stimulator setup together.

[xtrap225]

Thank you so much for this, its amazing to have something to use to get a good order to do the project in.

however, be warned folks there are at least a couple typos, i assume going by the BOM page for those would be best.
https://rusefi.com/docs/ibom/frankenso_latest.html

for example

LD604 and 3 others that are badly marked = LED, beware R604 is backwards vs the other 3 LEDs actually LD603 LD607 LD608
should say
LD604 and 3 others that are badly marked = LED, beware LD604 is backwards vs the other 3 LEDs actually LD603 LD607 LD608

and

C602 C604 = 1.0uF (104)
should say
C602 C604 = 0.1uF (104)

and

R172 R172 - Do not populate
should say
R172 R173 - Do not populate

and

C612 C613 = 3300pF (332)
should say
C162 C163 = 3300pF (332)

U531 = FT232RL http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documen ... FT232R.pdf
should say
U351 = FT232RL http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documen ... FT232R.pdf

R401 R410 = 22 ohm (220)
should say
R407 R410 = 22 ohm (220)

R412 R421 R424 = 1k ohms (102)
should say
R412 R420 R424 = 1k ohms (102)

R414 R422 R432 = 22 ohms (220)
should say
R411 R422 R423 = 22 ohms (220)

R427 = 1k ohms (102)
should say
R472 = 10k ohms (all mine are 4 code ones so im not going to bother)

U531 = FT232RL http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documen ... FT232R.pdf
should say
U351 = FT232RL http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documen ... FT232R.pdf

R230 = 3900 ohms (392)
i think this is supposed to be
R320 = 39k ohms

D436 = Diode
to be clear there is a D436 but it was listed twice and D434 is otherwise missing
D434 = Diode (the first listed one i think was the typo)

C166 = 24pf. not listed but is on bom sheet

[xtrap225]

12 channel injector drivers next

R408 R409 = 1k ohm (102)

R401 R410 = 22 ohm (220)

Q401 -> Q404 = https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/vnd14nv04.pdf Chamfer on package IDs the orentation
Pin 1 = LH chamfer side and pin 1 goes to resistors on small trace
These are damn tough, the iron looses too much heat to the ground plane and the hot air wants to blow them away all the time.
Managed by putting the non ground pins down first and then warming the ground plane with hot air while using a large tip in the iron on the pins.
Suggest maybe a spur of the ground plane to reduce the heat sink effect on these pins to make assemby easier?

D413 = Diode

D414 = LED



R404 R405 = 1k ohms (102)

R403 R406 = 22 ohm (220)

R427 = 1k ohms (102)



Q405 -> Q412 = Sams as Q401 -> Q404

R413 R417 R416 R421 = 1k ohms (102) - use hot air due to ground plane

R414 R418 R415 R419 = 22 ohm (220)

R412 R421 R424 = 1k ohms (102)

R414 R422 R432 = 22 ohms (220)

R426 = 22 ohms (220)

R425 = 1k ohms (102)



Something to note here is there was a minor defect on the board that stopped Q410 from working, the trace from R422 to Q410 was cut just where the trace meets the solder pad for the resistor.
If you look closely at the picture you can see a white line to the left of the R422, this is actually where the PCB trace is broken.
It is easily fixed by tracking some solder across from the resistor to the leg of the IC.

can anyone confirm that R401 above should read as R407?

also assuming that is true, what is R401 onthe ibom page it reads as Value=OPT Footprint=SIL-2 Quantity=1 and its a through hole device, but i can't find it in parts.

[Simon@FutureProof]

Thank you for spotting those couple of things. I will try to get a chance to update and correct those things.

Regarding the resistor it looks like you are correct that it is R407. This would be a ""220" resistor which translates to a 22 ohm.

These resistors are configured the same as for all the other drivers.

I will do a quick check of the other bits at the weekend.

[xtrap225]

Out of bits to complete this - need to order diodes and LEDs

Which diodes?
As for LEDs I guess I need to start putting a bit more LEDs into the kit. At the moment it's 15 while we need more like 12+8+x so maybe 25 or 30 to be on the safe side.

I ordered leds because the kit i have only came w/ blue. since i have no idea if that will be a problem or not during programming.

for example if the instructions say something like 'do this until red flashes green' i will have no idea if everything is blue.

[Simon@FutureProof]

I can't recall seeing any thing that did not refer to the LEDS by their number (like D15 etc) or their function, i.e. Run, Fatal, Coms etc etc.

I have started using blue for most things as I have a ton of them and the only ones with specific colours are the 4 named ones.

[xtrap225]

Q701 is a mosfet. There is no Q703 - there is D703, that one is a diode.

Ok, I thought the Q was a mosfet which explains why I have an extra mosfet.
Will still have to grab another diode from somewhere though.

The mosfet bag had 2 mosfets but was marked 1x
Diode wise - one bag of 12x which has filled out the analog spaces but I will have to go digging for another unless there is a few more hiding in the kit somewhere.

so what did you end up doing about the missing 13th diode? is it necessary? should i skip over D703 so that i have enough to do D210 -> D320?

that is 6 missing part so far by my count and that is of course not including the other colours for the leds.

[AndreyB]

for example if the instructions say something like 'do this until red flashes green' i will have no idea if everything is blue.

but this is not relevant for the Frankenso board if used with external brain board, and the kit requires external brain board?

[xtrap225]

for example if the instructions say something like 'do this until red flashes green' i will have no idea if everything is blue.

but this is not relevant for the Frankenso board if used with external brain board, and the kit requires external brain board?

thank you that is good to know, but now that i am waiting for my sample book from China with all the missing capacitors and resistors anyway, i might as well put in the proper colour leds since i ordered those too.

the pressing matter is what to do about the missing d703 diode. i don't want to order 100 diodes i don't need and wait an extra week or two for them to come. i need to find a local place with smd parts or scavenge it from a board. is there away test and know if you pull a schottky diode from a donor board that is the same size and shape and confirm it is a BAS70-04 and not something else that won't work or cause a problem?

[puff]

isn't it the same as used to protect analog inputs? anyways, it's worth checking the bat54 series - there are similar devices.
btw, have you seen this remark?

Снимок экрана 2020-01-21 в 22.57.39.png

[xtrap225]

isn't it the same as used to protect analog inputs? anyways, it's worth checking the bat54 series - there are similar devices.
btw, have you seen this remark?
Снимок экрана 2020-01-21 в 22.57.39.png

thank you for the quick response, i had not seen that, and i do not see wj01 on the bom sheet, so i am not sure where that is. where did you find that remark?

so you think i could safely skip this, certainly for now, but possibly get a bat54 in there as an alternative?

[puff]

I think so. Jared could give you a better answer.
I've noticed it on the top of mmc_usb_1 sheet of frankenso_schematic.pdf (rev. 0.5.5 of 2019-04-12).
It seems it uses just one of those diodes (probably, to optimize BOM?)
not sure what's that part of circuit is about.
cbus0 & cbus1 seem to just blink led on activity on uart ports
cbus3 is pwren, and here's what datasheet says about it:

Output is low after the device has been configured by USB, then high during USB suspending mode. This output can be used to control power to external logic P-Channel logic level MOSFET switch. Enable the interface pull-down option when using the PWREN# in this way.*

It seems to power the leds. Personally I'd use that jumper here instead of schottky.

[AndreyB]

d703 seems to be related to LEDs on USB/TTL chip? I have a feeling that the board would work just fine without this d703. Maybe you would not have TTL blinking? Maybe you would not even use USB/TTL since you have USB on the stm32 brain board.

[Simon@FutureProof]

Always used the USB on the discovery board so do not worry too much about the USB direct onto the Frankenso board.

[xtrap225]

i have another question, i hope i didn't miss something, i have a baggy #35 1N4007 flyback D12-D23 but it only has two diodes in it.

should i just install it as instructed to d12 and d13. is this where the end user needs to know Hall vs VR?

sorry i don't know anything about cars, and i'm building this for someone else, i need to know the right questions to ask him. i believe he wants to use it in is VW van.

he gave me the kit to build for him cause i have the soldering/rework station, and can probably program it once its working.

[AndreyB]

1N4007 flyback is for idle air valve solenoid (some people have those some don't) or variable valve timing solenoid (not many people have those)

1N4007 flyback have nothing to do with VR vs Hall.

[xtrap225]

do i need should i have 12 of them like the frankenso BOM says or just the two, and if the latter do i put just the first two in like this thread says earlier?

[AndreyB]

do i need should i have 12 of them like the frankenso BOM says or just the two, and if the latter do i put just the first two in like this thread says earlier?

Right... Let's try again.

How many idle valve solenoids do you have? I assume zero or one.
How many VVT solenoids do you have? I assume zero or one.

You would need between zero and 2 of these 1N4007 flyback depending on vehicles. There is no error in the kit, you absolutely do not need 12 of 1N4007 flyback diodes.

[xtrap225]

thank you very much!

that makes a lot more sense now, and i don't know the answer yet, but i can definitely either google that about the VW van or as you say i suspect they are unnecessary for the purpose he has in mind. i will put them on in the 12 and 13 position and call it a day.

another question for anyone, looking at completed photos i can't get a good angle but i think i see a nut in one of them.
that is are the brass stand offs (there are taller and shorter ones and some nuts to hold them on) are they to fasten the the big 64 pin ECU connector so that its not just solder holding that bad boy on?

i ask because it would make sense to do something to make that more secure, and they don't fit, so i don't want to force it.

should i come up with my own method to do that?

[xtrap225]

used zip ties for now on all for spots. ill let the car guy / owner of it figure that out. maybe he has a case or something to put it in.

[xtrap225]

sorry i really hope this is the last dumb question you kind folks will have to put up with.

is the 12v switch jumper just a 0 ohm resistor?

[AndreyB]

is the 12v switch jumper just a 0 ohm resistor?

the question is a bit vague since you are looking at some spot at the schematics but many people here have not looked at it in months, but yes probably just a 0 ohm resistor, nothing fancy anywhere.

[Simon@FutureProof]

Just realised something about this.
Those brass standoffs are for the LCD screen and the yellow plug screws to the board, screws are about the same size as PC case ones but don't use serrated ones, they will damage the board.