Don't forget your crimp tool(s) as well don't forget your special tools for opening the enclosure. I recall the smallest enclosures don't need the special tools, but most modICE will need special tools.
I think that there is mainly a need for Plug-and-Play (PnP) adapter boards to match specific engine connectors.
Perhaps if there were a loose standard we could encourage people to put their efforts to creating PCB layouts (Gerber files) converting from their preferred engine connector to a standard low-cost connector And then wiring harnesses from that connector to one of the existing RusEFI ECUs.
The connector wouldn't need to be weatherproof, but it needs to be automotive quality for vibration and temperature. It should be readily available and use an inexpensive crimp tool.
If it's not only about the connector, but about the whole enclosure, I'm afraid there's nothing left for people but building their own boards. It's a bit annoying, but you can live with that.
Besides, imho building boards for many people seems much less complex and much more feasible than adding new software features.
Technomelt is a common potting material for automotive applications. It melts like how glue and very chemical resistant. Toaster oven would melt it just fine. Also it's not a carcinogen. You can also get it were it phase changes at say 150c. Aka it could take many watts to exceed 150c preventing over heating.
Do you plan for this to be IP67 or similar? I wonder about the water resistance of the USB. As well if they are surface machining a mold, perhaps adding an o-ring groove could make for a nice water resistance feature.
I like the entire you don't see bolts thing. That makes it look clean.
Do you plan for this to be IP67 or similar? I wonder about the water resistance of the USB. As well if they are surface machining a mold, perhaps adding an o-ring groove could make for a nice water resistance feature.
I like the entire you don't see bolts thing. That makes it look clean.
I think the usb should just be a remote connector. There's no point on having it on the box, this way you can have the case inside or on engine bay, but always have the connector inside near glove box, ashtray, whatever you want. This way it's reliable(no weird connections) and weatherproof. That's how I plan to do on microrusEfi when I install it, since it's ready for it.
Those connectors are pretty common. GM gen4 (2005+) v8 engines use those connectors, I think.
The other consideration with those connectors is that you have to solder the connector once it's installed in the case - so you can't remove the board or access the top side if it's installed in a case.
The other consideration with those connectors is that you have to solder the connector once it's installed in the case - so you can't remove the board or access the top side if it's installed in a case.
Hold on, this is quite unacceptable for us DIY is not it?
The other consideration with those connectors is that you have to solder the connector once it's installed in the case - so you can't remove the board or access the top side if it's installed in a case.
Hold on, this is quite unacceptable for us DIY is not it?
So is the best idea for an enclosure still to just poach an existing ECU with the same connector you want to use? So for 121-pin connector, some Audi/VW (Bosch) or Nissan case?
So is the best idea for an enclosure still to just poach an existing ECU with the same connector you want to use?
While existing ECU is still the best option I am still not happy with it. My problem is that I want a _larger_ enclosure while OEM simply does not have need above curtain square footage.
Would you be able to create a wiki page with dimensions of various ECU cases, at least for the 121+ pin enclosures? It might be helpful to get that documented for those trying to make their own PCB.
It's on the huge side and does not align with some versions of the 154 header mold but I like this YC-14. Let me know if you need a rusEFI for your Veyron.
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