Manual:Hardware Frankenso board
Frankenso should be powered by ignition switch. Frankenso main relay output can control main (injectors/fuel pump etc) relay if needed.
4 layer, 6.4"x6.1" (162mmx155mm)
3D files at OnShape
See also online BOM https://rusefi.com/docs/ibom/frankenso_latest.html
Frankenso was designed with Mazda Miata NA pinout in mind. The most easily available ECU harness pig tail comes from OBD-I Honda vehicles, different Honda vehicles use slightly different harness colors so the values given are pretty approximate, please use common sense. See connector details @ http://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hardware:OEM_connectors#64_pin
Here is a video about how to changed these "Honda obd1 ecu" connector pins. It has also been found that the second stage release can be done with a flat hair clips can be used from the back side of the connector to release the pin.
Terminal Removal Tool Kit or glasses screwdriver would be needed to remove pins
Inductors - black squarish things with "330" on them - orientation does not matter
R1001 - 1K resistor - orientation does not matter
D1001 - that's the trickiest one. I need a magnifying glass to see the dash which should be oriented towards the round electrolytic capacitor/connector section.
Yellow capacitors - should be oriented as on the picture
Round capacitor - should be oriented as on the picture
Red/black through-hole diodes - should be oriented as on the picture
F1001 - default setup is just a piece of wire. I use the red/black diode cut-off
U1001 regulator pads: +12v, +5, GND, +5, GND
If you're assembling your Frankenso yourself:
1. Install the components listed above plus R1002, D1005, Q1001, F1001, Q1001, and U1001 (check the schematic for your board revision - part numbers/requirements may change).
2. Check for +5V at a suitable location at the power supply - be careful not to bridge pins with meter tips!
3. If you've got +5V then install a jumper at W23 - its right next to L1002 (the left inductor) in the picture above - this will bring power to the rest of the board. If you don't have +5V then something is wrong.
The cheaper way which works for Hall sensors only is to use op-amps channels.
For rev 0.1 you can use channels 9 & 11. To enable this configuration you would need to run a yellor jumper wire from the op-amp side of W211 to JPTODO to and a white hacky wire right from op-amp chip pads XX&XX to TODO.
20x4 or 16x2 HD44780 character display
M3*12+6mm standoffs used to mount LCD screen with M3*5+6mm to hold it.
Contrast is controlled by R99
LCD power jumper: JPO1
The screen has 16 wiring holes, so does Frankenso. The middle 4 wires are not used, the other 6+6 wires on the sides should be connected.
Low-side drivers are used for most (all?) high-Z injectors and relays.
pins PE0 & PE1 are used on discovery, on stock discovery board these pins are not driving properly
on Frankenso 0.4, PE0 was replaced with PD5
PE1 was replaced with PD3
C101 & C102 are 1000pF / 1nF / 0.001uF
C103 is 10uF
C104 is 0.1uF / 100nF
R102, R103, R104, R106, R107, R108, R109 & R110, R111 & R112 are 5K
R113 & R114 are 10K
High-side could be set to drive logic leven (not high energy) +5v or +12v. Used for some coils like GM LS or Miata. Also used to drive Miata tachometer. Can not be used to drive 95 Neon coils since those need high energy drivers.
This section of the board is optional. Output voltage is controlled by a VP<>5V or VP<>12V jumper (P602/P604 on the picture below). Before version 0.4 all six channels were using the same jumper and the same voltage. On version 0.4 and later each pair of outputs has it's own set of jumpers.
R601 & R604, R605 & R608, R609 & R612 are 100R current limiting resistors
R602 & R603, etc are 2.7K needed only for the LEDs
C601, C602 & C603 are 0.1uF
These chips could be configured to run 5v, 12v or GND output:
Our op-amp of choice is MCP6004-E/SL
Knock Sensor Decoder
1K: R170, R171, R172, R173 & R174
10K: R163 & R164, R175 & R176
68K: R167, R168
1M: R161, R162, R166
0.02nF/20pF: C166, C167
47nF/47000pF/0.047uF: C162, C163
R170 is INT/HOLD pull-up
R171 is CS pull-up
R174 is MOSI pull-up
R351 is 1M
R352 is 1k - that's current limiter for the LED
C351 is 4700pf, that's the same as 4.7nF
C352 & C353 are 47pF
C354 & C358 are 4.7uF
C355, C356 and C357 are 0.1uF (same thing as 100nF)
SD card socket
Frankenso board has provisions for exhaust gas temperature but MAX31855 chips are not included in DIY kits and not populated on assembled boards. Special connectors would also be needed to connect the EGT sensing wire.
Clock backup battery
More pictures at http://rusefi.com/images/Frankenso/
Compatible with a 64 pin DENSO case from the early 90s'. Mounting holes should also work with 48 pin case but you would need to cut a larger connector opening.
1993-1996 Toyota Camry 89661-06130 89661-06150 89661-06270 89661-33390 89661-33760
Different case but also works - a bit tight with LCD 89661-30160 89661-30161
1991 Mazda Protege AT, 1994 Mazda Protege AT
1992 1993 Mazda MX3 4cyl AT B66T
tight on vertical USB but works 89661-28140
need to try 89661-28120
Known to not work great but could be an option if nothing else is available:
Mazda 929 JE48 18 881A
89661-32590 is a taller case. Kind of an option - only one mounting hole aligns perfectly but couple of holes could be massaged to work.
89561-32021, 89561-32022, 89661-32231, 89661-12511, 89661-07010, 89661-07050 would require cutting
89661-3T270 board fits but no LCD access and no mounting hole line up
89661-22050 - not great option at all
89661-33070 seems to be taller
microUSB drill d=12mm / 1/2 inch
45mm (47?) from right edge / 7mm from top edge
Case cover bolts: M4/0.7mm countersunk Philips, 9mm thread length
98% components on the board could be acquired on Degikey/Mouser, but a few are only available on eBay:
68uH radial inductor 8x10 (Frankenso 0.5+)
33uh inductor 12x12x7 (Frankenso 0.1 - 0.4)
Micro SD Card Socket
20x4 character lcd hd44780
Some components are available via major suppliers but just cheaper on eBay:
2.54mm 2x25 Female Double Row Header
LM2596 5V TO-263 Voltage Regulator
7343 16V 220Uf Tantalum
32.768K Crystal MC-306
In order to make cheap kits available we need to use generic eBay "2000 pcs 0805 parts". Good news most 0805 components have a wide acceptable range.
|Part #/system||Schematics value||Acceptable range of values|
|R617 / high-side driver limit||20R||20R-22R|
|R602 / low-side LED status current limiting||2.7K||2.7K-3.3K|
|R231 R241 R251 R271 - disconnected sensor detection||500K||500K-1M|
|R166 TPIC Xtal something||2M||1M-10M|
|C601 C602 C603
C471 C165 C355 C356 C701 C702 C357 C104 C211 251 291
|0.1uf / 100nf||0.068uF-0.1uf / 68nf 100nf|
|R102 R103 R104 R106 VR input primary||5K||4.7K-5K|
|R108 R108 R109 R110 VR input secondary||5K||5K-5.6K|
|R111 R112 VR optional dampening||5K||4.7K-5.6K|
|c103 - absorbs energy from VR||10uf 10v||10uf 10v|
Low side switch options
|VNS14NV04 VNS14NV04PTR-E||35mΩ 12A||Y||AEC-Q100|
|AUIRF7484Q AUIRF7484QTR||10mΩ 14A||N||AEC-Q101|