Manual:Hardware Frankenstein board

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Current status

Version 0.11 fabricated & tested, it's available @ our store

For comparison with Frankenso see

System schematic.png

Frankenstein forum thread


BOMs: digikey detailed

digikey aggregated

Pinout (wip)


Bare PCB


v0.1 front full-size v0.1 back full-size

Assembled board without connectors


Assembly instructions

Step 1: MMC/SD card & USB TTL

Let's begin with communication module


I'm impatient so P352 SD card module goes on first. Together with the right 25x2 header (P51/P353/P402) this gets me a working SD card. Hurray, this board is not a total failure! Now it's time to C357 to make things right.

Now USB TTL interface: U351 chip and J351 miniUSB connector.
R351 is 1M
C351 is 4700pf, that's the same as 4.7nF. I know it's confusing so I an always using a reference.
C352 & C353 are 47pF
C354 & C358 are 4.7uF
C355, C356 and C357 are 0.1uF (same thing as 100nF)

Step 2a: Hall sensor input

While we can use the MAX9926 VR chip for Hall sensor, the small chip is a hard to solder and the chip is relatively expensive - so I'd rather use op-amp channels for Hall sensor input. I have two Hall sensors so I would build two identical channels.


Both would use U203 quad op-amp
C291 is 0.1uF
C310 & C320: input RC filter 10000PF/0.01uF

Inp11 would be trigger channel1: R310 1K pull-up, R311 500K pull-down, R312 10K current limiting, R313 100 smth, R314 1.5K & R315 1.5K voltage divider.
Inp12 would be trigger channel2: R320 1K pull-up, R321 500K pull-down, R322 10K current limiting, R323 100 smth, R324 1.5K & R325 1.5K voltage divider.

For trigger channel 1 there will be an ugly yellow wire between the left side of W211 and right side of JP53 (PC6), and for second channel it would be a green wire between the right side of W212 and PA5


step 3: Analog Inputs

See also



Unless overwise stated explicitly, all analog channels need 10K current limiting resistor and 100R resistor with 0.01uF capacitor for RC filter.

The legend on the back assigns throttle position sensor to INP2 (stm pin PA3/ADC channel 3), intake air to INP3 (stm pin PC3/ADC 13) coolant temperature sensor to INP4 (stm pin PC1/ADC 11).

Inp2 (stm pin PA3/ADC3) would be throttle position sensor: no pull-up, R221 500K pull-down, R222 10K current limiting, R223 100R C220 0.01uF/10nF/10000pF RC filter, R224 1.5K & R225 1.5K voltage divider.
Inp3 (stm pin PC3/ADC13) would be intake air: R230 ??? pull-up, no pull-down, R232 10K current limiting, /10nF/10000pF RC filter, R234 1.5K & R235 1.5K voltage divider.
Inp4 (stm pin PC1/ADC11) would be coolant temperature sensor: R24x ??? pull-up, no pull-down, R242 10K current limiting, R243 100 smth C240 0.01uF/10nF/10000pF RC filter, R244 1.5K & R245 1.5K voltage divider.

Inp1 (stm pin PA1/ADC1) is my MAP sensor: no pull-up, R211 500K pull-down

Inp5 (stm pin PA0/ADC0) Battery voltage. Here we would need a voltage divider on the input side: R252 10K current limiting, R253 100 smth, R254 1.5K & R255 1.5K voltage divider.

C291 0.1uF/100nF

Our op-amp of choice is MCP6004-E/SL

High side driver

This section of the board is optional.

TC4427 v3sBU4x.png


C601, C602 & C603 are 0.1uF
R609, R612 - 100R

With the current issue - we've used MSOP case by mistake, this one is hard to solder. Be sure not to use too much paste. Not sure if you should even try it with soldering wire.

Low side driver

The resistors in the left row are 20R, the ones in the right row are 1K. The VNS14NV04 MOSFETs are mounted upside down: the notch should be on top, the part number & ST logo are upside down.

low_side.png low_side_soldered.jpg

CAN module

This section of the board is optional.



C471 is 0.1uF
C472 is 4.7uF
R472 10K something
R473 120R CAN termination

VR input

See also


C101 & C102 are 1000pF/1nF
C103 is 10uF
C104 is 0.1uF
R102, R103, R104, R106, R107, R108, R109 & R110 are 5K
R113 & R114 are 10K


If you are using VR input you need to jump JP53 pins together and put a wire between the left side of JP52 and PA5


Random notes

We are still working on our own power supply, for now you would probably need a "12 to 5v power supply module" from eBay: power_supply_3A.jpg

For the "low side to high side" hack you would need to mount through-hole resistors in a tower/Manhattan style.

There is no SD module part number from a major US supplier. TODO: figure this out, but just get them on eBay - see

FT232 validation:

pin 15: USBDP 1.5K pull-up to to 3.3 - green USB wire
pin 16: USBDM - white USB wire
pin 17: 3vout

Q: 'USB Device cannot be recognized'?
A: Take a spare USB cable & cut it to check continuity between white wire and pin 16.