rusefi.com

Evening from Mississippi!

My 86 MR2 Has been an on going project for the past 8 or so years.
It's now time to get rid of the 1980s ECU and step up to something more modern

Goals for this project are:
1) Learn
2) Update the ECM / Wiring harness
3) Make the car / Engine electrical more manageable and easier to service
4) Upgrade to coil-on-plug Ignition
5) Upgrade the injectors to a more modern variant.
6) Delete the 'flappy door' MAF.

About the engine
- 4A-GE 7 rib block,
- Rebuilt stock bottom end with / 5-10K miles
- ARP head studs
- Supertech MLS Head Gasket
- Piston rings gapped at widest factory tolerance (For boost)
- Small Port head
- Mild port on the intake
- Stock Cams
- Compression ratio ~9:1

Long term goals are 150-200 HP at the crank.
Going to stay NA for a while but plan on running a Small Turbo one day.

Once I get some experience under my belt I hope to contribute more to the project as time allows.


Board booting: Car: Engine: Crank trigger setup.

Welcome!

Things are too clean and too assembled Trigger looks like 36/2 or 36/3 or something similar? Is there a cam sensor anywhere?

Do you have JP04 and JP05 between MAx9926 and stm32?

When do you plan to crank the engine with this ECU?

Welcome along. Looks like some nice progress.

russian wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 11, 2019 3:04 am

Things are too clean and too assembled Trigger looks like 36/2 or 36/3 or something similar? Is there a cam sensor anywhere?

Do you have JP04 and JP05 between MAx9926 and stm32?

When do you plan to crank the engine with this ECU?

Yes Nissan instills 5S in the work place some of it carries over to personal life
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/5S_(methodology)

Not Yet But I will install them. I assume that is a common mistake People Make?

Probably Looking at sometime in July. Lots of little things to do between now and then

Got an ECU Case on Sunday but it was from a '92 Camry... (and NO the Frankenso Does not fit the 92 case, PN: 89661-06061, Mounting holes for the PCB don't line up)

So I went back after work today and got a case from a 95' Camry [PN: 89661-06270]
Had to cut out one corner but it fits now.

The arrow shows where I had to cut. Close up of the cut:
The 3.5mm Head Phone Jack will have to be removed and a hole cut for the LCD.

Got some better Photos of the trigger wheel.

The trigger wheel is from a 7A/4A-FE Engine from a '96 Corolla
I haven't welded the Trigger wheel to the Timing gear so If any one has advice on how to Clock them it would be appreciated.

What I have in the pictures is it clocked the same relationship that it had with the original timing gear.

That corner of the LCD I just usually cut and most of my LCDs are mounted with only three stand offs.

The 3.5mm jack I usually yank out since it does not clear vertically anyway.

pk386 wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 12, 2019 2:24 am

I haven't welded the Trigger wheel to the Timing gear so If any one has advice on how to Clock them it would be appreciated.

Why weld anything not OEM? Why not use OEM trigger and OEM sensor?

If this has the Toyota VAST ignition (with the two wheels in the distributor) it might work with that. I've been meaning to see if I can get synchronization but life is getting in the way.

Otherwise, the RusEFI wiki supports a "Global Trigger Angle Offset" mentioned here: https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:First_engine_start#Confirm_TDC_position
If @ can confirm that its currently working, then I don't see why the clocking of your position sensor will matter too much.

theflyingdutchp wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 16, 2019 1:15 am

If this has the Toyota VAST ignition (with the two wheels in the distributor) it might work with that. I've been meaning to see if I can get synchronization but life is getting in the way.

Otherwise, the RusEFI wiki supports a "Global Trigger Angle Offset" mentioned here: https://rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual:First_engine_start#Confirm_TDC_position
If @ can confirm that its currently working, then I don't see why the clocking of your position sensor will matter too much.

That's good to know.

Yes it does have the VAST ignition, (Which to be honest is a brilliant design with the limited technology available at the time.)
I plan on converting to coil on plug for better control of ign timing.

For now I plan on putting the stock distributor back in for using the single trigger as a sync pulse. I'd like to use something more compact in the future to clean up the engine bay.
(Picture borrowed from this Link:
https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/25735-DIY-4AGE-Distributor-Rebuild)

Global trigger offset works for sure

Ok so I got some time to spend with the board.

I have two questions.

1) I tried the injector test with the console.... should the indicator LEDs light up or is there a 5V jumper I am missing?


2) How is the Joy stick mapped out?
I see this after moving the Joy stick in all 4 directions + center. I'm not sure If something is wrong with the Joy stick but it seems like
(Directions relative to the text of the LCD)
(Right) = Next (or down the list)
(Left) = Enter
(center) = Go back to main screen
(Down) = No function.
(UP) = No function


Thanks in advance, Just trying to get a feel for how things work before I start laying out the harness and the I/O

2) yes, Joy stick is wired weirdly. Looks like everything on your board, what I see is expected. Ignore Joy stick for now

1) no jumpers on primary low side drivers and LEDs. Something is not right here. Pictures of both sides of the board maybe? Do you have a beeping multimeter? It would beep since it would ground outputs.

2)... DOH, I forgot I didn't put the LED's on the low side, LOL

I also realised that In "Injector #1" in the console is NOT INJ-01_2 on the Frankenso board.

(I noticed the console Triggering PB9 in the console window and started tracing the schematics to INJ-09 on the Schematics)

Now I get 3 Ticks from my Multimeter when I hit test "Injector#1"

Small Update:

more painted bits on the engine: engine harness deconstruction and labeling:

Long time No update....

been working on the wiring for this project
Getting close to putting it back in the Car and start working on Powering it UP!

Looking great! Is that a TVIS manifold? I thought the small port didn't have it?

I like the colored shrink wrap on the fuel injector wiring.

kb1gtt wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 18, 2020 9:56 am

I like the colored shrink wrap on the fuel injector wiring.

Me too - that's a great idea. Maybe that would satisfy my need that would otherwise be fulfilled by buying a machine that can print on shrink wrap...

Oh I plan on getting a label maker as well some day...

This was I had no other option at the time due to budget constraints.

theflyingdutchp wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 18, 2020 2:32 am

Looking great! Is that a TVIS manifold? I thought the small port didn't have it?

I should update the title it's actually a large port with TVIS. I got my terminology mixed up.

Ok so I am finally getting to the point to setting up the trigger.

I have a 36-2? Toyota Trigger wheel from a 96+ Toyota Corolla 7A-FE connected to PA5 (leading edge of the gap hits the sensor at ~126deg BTDC#1 (Image is shown with Crank at TDC #1.) I have a CAM Sync pulse 0deg TDC#1 connected to PC6 I need help logging these triggers with the RUSEFI console to set up the program correctly.

I do not know how to get the console to LOG PA5 and PC6.

Also I don't know how to set this up in TunerStudio

thanks in advance.

How do I get this to show PC6 AND PA5????

Please post your current tune to https://rusefi.com/online

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 21, 2020 9:04 am

Please post your current tune to https://rusefi.com/online

Done.

Note I checked PIN PA5 (Crank) and PC6(CAM) at the ST discovery board and I am getting the correct pulses.


https://rusefi.com/online/index.php?engineCode=4a-GE+(custom+trigger+wheel)&sorts[uploadedMsq]=-1&sorts[uploadedLog]=-1

Trigger configuration is very confusing and you have a few issues with your settings.

You have 36/2 trigger wheel, which has ONE wire (not two), which is a "4 stroke without cam" (your 36/2 has nothing to do with cam)

you also have a cam/vvt sensor which should be configured via "cam/vvt" input, and you would choose some cam/vvt mode other than "inactive"

I've just made an improvement in TunerStudio project - 36/2 trigger would no longer allow "second channel" same as 36/1 and 60/2 already do not allow it. Thank you for reporting this issue

OK, I'm not sure this is correct.

1) It shows 4 ign cycles per revolution of the crank shaft?

2) I'm not seeing Pulses (events) on PC6 (Cam Trigger). (I see the D802 LED blink for the cam pulse)

3) Next steps????
Tune with new settings is here:
https://rusefi.com/online/?engineCode=4a-GE+(custom+trigger+wheel)&sorts[uploadedMsq]=-1&sorts[uploadedLog]=-1

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 22, 2020 9:37 am

You have 36/2 trigger wheel, which has ONE wire (not two), which is a "4 stroke without cam" (your 36/2 has nothing to do with cam)

You have 36/2 trigger wheel,

which is a "4 stroke without cam"

your 36/2 has nothing to do with cam

those details matter. your current setting selection need to be changed for engine cycle to be crank driven not cam driven. setting name operation mode / speed

I would not bother with cam sensor until your engine is running

AndreyB wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 23, 2020 7:47 am

which is a "4 stroke without cam"

This does, however, mean that you'll need to configure the ignition in "wasted spark" mode, and enable "two wire wasted" so that it will operate in wasted spark using all 4 outputs.

Please change "advanced trigger" -> "vvt mode" from inactive to "first half"

but that would probably not help, open question why signals are not appearing on engine sniffer

Ok This makes more sense. I have one Ignition pulse per cylinder per 720deg revolution I'll get a timing light on it soon.

MY Cam is set to pulse at 0deg TDC #1

but MY gap on my 36-2 is at ~126BTDC #1. does my Global off set need to be -126?

Still not seeing events on the cam pulse :-/

Tune is here:
https://rusefi.com/online/index.php?engineCode=4a-GE+(custom+trigger+wheel)&sorts[uploadedMsq]=-1&sorts[uploadedLog]=-1

pk386 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 23, 2020 11:10 pm

but MY gap on my 36-2 is at ~126BTDC #1. does my Global off set need to be -126?

I don't remember off the top of my head if it's + or - 126, but it's easy enough to figure out with a timing light (or just trying to start it!).

pk386 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 23, 2020 11:10 pm

Still not seeing events on the cam pulse :-/

Don't worry about the cam sensor yet - get it running on crank-only to start with.